Lastly, Rio is a living city! We can recognise the warmth and streetlife of the south of Europe, the dynamism of the districts, the festival / festa blood that runs through every carioca. Partying is done without counting and fear of the following day. Rio, the city of excess!
Rio is a city abounding with treasures, and it is with great excitation that we spend many days exploring it.
The topography of the city is attractive. Bordered with many kilometers of coast, Rio is characterised by its delirious relief, its islands and its many hills. From our home, we can see the sea and the large Guanabara bay. From the favela where I work, on top of a hill, a stunning panoramic view on the city and the sea. As for the vegetation, the forest of Tijuca, immense, tropical and wild, the lungs of Rio.
Rio, witout complex
Delphine had already come to Rio, and promised me that I was going to adore. It was not a mistake, I love it! The city of Rio de Janeiro, by its vastness, its diversity and its madness is really attractive, and… very addictive!
The adaptation was however not immediate. At our arrival, my spirit was still in Africa. Low architecture, deep rooted traditions, underdevelopment, lives led by beliefs and religions. In Rio, the streets are built the European way. Large buildings, high-rise office buildings, large avenues and tunnels. As for the streetlife, there is no tabou, nothing is hidden. Poverty, sexuality, violence, all is shown and catch the eyes. People are for the majority without complex and do not have any shame showing off their personality and dress code, whatever they are.
The beaches of Copacabana et Ipanema
Without its beaches, Rio would not be Rio! The main beaches, Copacabana and Ipanema, are life and meeting places impossible to miss. Immense by their size (several kms of length and a hundred meters of depth), they are bordered with a walking and cycling track where walkers, runners, cyclists and itinerant salesmen parade. A little bit like the 'Promenade des Anglais' in Nice, but without the rollerskaters, the old men, and the English…
On the beach, it is a permanent procession. The cariocas like to show off and show it to us. The best lookers expose l their bodies to the least detail, while the less beautiful… make in the same way. No shame in having a big bottom and wearing a throng bikini!
The beach is often crammed. One should not be afraid to see his private space being made encroached by the neighbour's towel. The atmosphere is very relaxed: people drink beers, caipirinas, play football, flirt, and chat with the itinerant salesmen. Despite this very relaxed appearance, we still have to pay attention, because the beach is not safe at all! In front of our eyes, a man saw his chain being torn off from his neck. After only 3 days, two English girls from our group saw their handbag disappearing in a fifth of a second… In Copacabana and Ipanema, we appreciate the environment, but we always stay on our guards! sur ses gardes !
The beaches are also the ideal spot to run and build up muscles. While jogging, under the crushing heat, I regaled myself observing the life around me. The sight on the sugar loaf, the sea and the islands is really splendid, and running under such conditions is a real pleasure. As a reward, a fresh coconut to drink and savour. Que bella vida!
A walk from Flamengo to Sugar Loaf
On a Sunday, we leave for a long and owling ballade to the Urca area, at the foot of the sugar loaf mountain. From the house, we directly got to the beach of Flamengo, and then walked all along the Guanabara bay, via Botafogo, to finally arrive in the charming district of Urca. The area has all the airs of a small village, with beautiful residences, small squares, a church opposite the sea and a small beach. Picturesque, safe and very pretty, we recommend this place to the future travellers. The sight on the city centre is also splendid there. At midday, for the hundredths time of the week, we stop in a restaurant to eat a pizza, one of the rare dishes that Delphine manages to digest.
The Tijuca tropical forest
This Saturday January 17 we decided to explore the forest of Tijuca. In the heart of Rio between Copacabana and Centro, we suddenly found ourselves in the largest urban forest of the world.
The tropical vegetation is dense, we feel like deep in the jungle, where thousands of insects, butterflies, iguanas and snakes populate this splendid place.
The hike through the “jungle” is energising, releasing, there is only green around us, the noises from running water or a cascade where we stop pick nicking and refreshing ourselves under a wet heat of more than 40 degrees.
We have the impression to have spent this day far from the city and of the world. We are completely re-energised and filled with wonder from this splendid ballade.
Tags and graffitis
In the favelas, in the streets or on buildings, Rio abound with expressive and coloured graffitis.
See below some photographs taken in the favela of Prazeres, and within the district of Santa Teresa.
The artistic and boheme neighbourgood of Santa Teresa
Santa Teresa is the Bohemian district of Rio. Nested on the hill, the district is accessible only after a one long walk up from the steps and narrow streets, or by the famous tram, “o bonde”, operating since the end of the 14th century.
The heart of Santa Teresa is full with charm. Coffees, restaurants, and small shops attract tourists, locals and artists. The atmosphere is very relaxed, laid back. During the day, we can listen to jazz, and in the evening, samba, bossa nova. Architecture is also very interesting. Old colonial residences, immense, overhang the hills and contribute much to the charm of this place which is finally very “roots”.
We start our stroll in the south of Santa Teresa, close to the favela where I worked. While following the bonde railtracks (impossible to get lost!), we admire the residences bordering the road. Some have astonishing shapes and architecture, like an old church or a fantastic castle. Downwards, we can see the centre town, the Sambodromo, and many favelas seeming to climb on the hills. After a lunch break, we arrive on the central place of Santa Teresa, very picturesque, to wait for the tram. Opposite the stop, a bakery. We crack, storm in it, to buy and devoure melting meringues and chouquettes.
We will take the bonde twice, to get driven through the entire itinerary. It rocks in all directions, but the journey is very appreciable. All the lanes of the district are furrowed, and we get to the city centre having passed over the famous aqueduct of Lapa. Beware of giddiness! Our balade will finish close to the central place of Santa Teresa, in a coffee shop, to listen to live jazz live while sipping a coffee, and eating (again) a melting banana cake. Hahhhh!
